ZIKHRON YAAQOV

Nestling enchantingly on the heights of a mountain overlooking the sea, Zikhron Yaaqov is the heart of wine country and the home of the famous Carmel wineries (there are also cellars in Rishon LeZion).

You should avail yourself of the guided tours of the plant in English and French offered all year round. However, the best months to stop over at Zikhron Yaaqov (``In memory of Jacob'') are August and September, when the vineyards are heavy with grapes and when you can nibble on bunches while watching them being crushed and taken off to ferment.

The success story of the verdant fields compares remarkably with the trials of the pioneers who arrived in 1882. They would assuredly have gone bust had it not been for the patronage of Baron Edmond de Rothschild, after whose father the town is named. He brought in a wine-press in 1886 and provided the financial support to sustain the farmers.

His dying wish in Paris in 1934 was to be buried in the Holy Land and 20 years later he was reinterred in Ramat Hanadiv, nearby. The proud little town, with fourth and fifth generation farmers, gained additional fame as the Palestinian headquarters of the World War I ``Nili'' spy ring. The Jewish group's founders included the famed natural historian Aaron Aaronsohn, his brother, Alexander, and his sister, Sarah. They fed the British with military secrets on the enemy Turks.

On learning of their exposure, Sarah ordered her colleagues away from the town and remained alone. She was captured and subjected to four days of brutal torture. Then she shot herself to death in the Aaronsohn home which had been the ring's headquarters. The home and the period pieces within it have been preserved as a national memorial and museum.

Sites

Aaron Aaronsohn Picnic Site: alongside mountain road leading from coast into Zikhron Yaaqov. Dedicated to the noted agronomist, discoverer of emmer wheat in the Galilee, and founder of the Nili spy ring.

Bet Aaronsohn: 40 Rehov Hameyasdim, north of the same road to Ramat Hanadiv. Compound includes museum with memorabilia of Aaronsohn family and Aaron's library. Living quarters, decorated with original furniture, include bedroom where Sarah died, and trap-door concealing ``Nili'' spies' hideaway. Guided tours: Sun. - Thurs. 9.30 a.m. - 1 p.m., Fri. 10 a.m.-12 noon. Film included.

Carmel Oriental Wineries: on eastern slope of town. Guided tours of the wineries, which have been operating for over 100 years Sun. - Thurs. 9 a.m. - 3 p.m., Fri. 9 a.m. - noon. Concludes with wine-tasting. Fee.

Ramat Hanadiv: ``Heights of the Benefactor.'' On southern outskirts of town, along Rehov Hameyasdim (Road No. 652 from Binyamina to Zikhron Yaaqov). Lavish park overlooking coastal plain and sea. Stately tomb of Baron Edmond de Rothschild and his wife, Baroness Adelaide, within crypt of memorial gardens. All financed by James A. de Rothschild, son of Baron Edmond. Entrance to park through gates adorned with Rothschild crest. Crypt open: Sun - Thurs. 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. Fri. 9 a.m. - 2 p.m. Closed Saturday. Gardens open daily 8 a.m. - 4 p.m. Admission free.

Yad LaMeyasdim: north of Ramat Hanadiv, along Rehov Hameyasdim. Scroll-shaped edifice depicting in relief the founding of Zikhron Yaaqov and neighbouring villages. Surrounding lawns have display of agricultural tools used by early settlers. To get to En Hod follow the old road (No. 4) northwards, close to the Carmel mountain range, past banana plantations, until a signpost directs you right. The artists' retreat is about one kilometre past the olive groves.