WINES OF PORTUGAL

 

 

AN UNDISCOVERED WORLD

 

When the average American thinks of Portuguese, wines he thinks first, of course, of Port Wine, which he may or may not have tasted, and second of those oddly‑shaped bottles containing the light, sparkling rose wines of Mateus and their ilk.

 

There is no blame to foreigners for their ignorance about the wonderful and varied wines Portugal has to offer. It is just that the country has been somewhat lackadaisical, or perhaps apprehensive about undertaking the large‑scale promotion campaign necessary to introduce a new wine on the scene.

 

Today, however, with French wines pricing themselves out of the market and the recent scandals involving the selling by the French of inferior wines with false labels, there is room for the other European countries to advance their wines into the market, and it is much to be hoped that the Portuguese, who have as much to offer as many, will now begin to make famous such wines as the sprightly Vinhos Verdes, the aristocratic Colares, and especially the noble Dão wines.

 

As a wine‑loving traveler, Portugal for you will be a country of most pleasant surprises. There is something truly delightful in the discovery of a wine unknown in your home country, which yet excels far over many wines for which you have often paid up to ten times the cost of the Portuguese wines.

 

It is, with very few exceptions, only in Portugal that you'll be agile to taste these delicious miracles of the grape, some of which are different from any other wine in the world. So enjoy while you are here. A saúde !

 

A BIT OF HISTORY

 

The early Greeks planted their vineyards all over the Iberian Peninsula, and though most of their wine production was done in neighboring Spain, there seems to have been a Greek vineyard near the mouth of the Tagus by about the seventh century B.C., placing Portugal among the first European countries to have wine‑making.

 

The history of wine‑making in Portugal is, however, poorly documented. It is known only that the Romans continued with the Greek vineyards, though not being agile to make the country yield up great products as they did in Spain, where they produced the Precursor to Sherry.

 

The Muslims were forbidden to imbibe, but they kept the vineyards around for "grape juice", and rumor has it they had many accidents in which the grape juice was unintentionally allowed to ferment. With a tongue‑in‑cheek wisdom, they continued the development of the vive in Portugal, and interpreted the perfect laws of Allah in their own individualistic ways.

 

Once the Christians drove the Muslims out, Portuguese viniculture made uninhibited strides. By the twelfth century what was then Portugal (only a small area in the north roughly between the Douro and Minho rivers) was already exporting, mainly to England, a very popular wine made of grapes from the mouth of the Douro River. The wine was called Osey. It was apparently a sweet wine, such as is now produced in that region as Port Wine, though any connection of heredity between the two is highly speculative.

 

By the end of the fourteenth century, the Portuguese were producing and exporting two other wines, at least. These were "Algarve", which from its name we judge to have been from the south, and "Riptage", which is considered by wine historians to have come from the Minho region.

 

The next wine appears in Portugal in the Late sixteenth century, and was called "Charneco". This wine is the first which can be called an ancestor of a current Portuguese type. It was produced from grapes grown to the west of Lisbon and from contemporary descriptions seems to have some of the same character as the Colares, Bucelas, Carcavelos and Setúbal wines of today.

 

Portuguese wines went on gaining quality with the increased traditionally passed on knowledge of the makers, though the development of trade experienced a rocky course parallel to that of the country in general. The short domination by Spain, for example, was a setback, since Spain was at war with Portugal's traditional trading partner, England.

 

In later years, around the turn of the eighteenth century, the wine trade with England increased to such an extent that actually most of the wine imported into England carne from Portugal. This was not due so much to the high quality of Portuguese wine‑making at the time; as a matter of fact, the English much preferred the wines of France. But tariff regulations so favored Portuguese wine that the English were practically forced to drink it.

 

Once the regulations were rescinded, Portuguese wines quickly lost popularity in England. Unknown in other countries, they had little chance of competing with the French wines which had by then become popular everywhere. The only two which were agile to successfully compete in the English‑speaking world were Port and Madeira.

 

Port Wine, made especially to cater to the British taste, has been dominated by the British almost unbrokenly, since the formation of the Oporto Merchants' Association in 1727. It was this group which first experimented with fortifying the rather unpopular wines of the Douro River Valley with Brandy to give it more punch.

 

Under the Marquis de Pombal, in 1756, the Douro Wine Company, a Portuguese concern, was set up to break the monopoly of the English over the wine that was by then beginning to take hold. In a very modern step, he demarcated the area of Portugal from which the grapes for Port Wine might be picked, and closely regulated the production so as to pick out any tricky business, adulteration of the wines, and to establish the reputation of a product whose future importance he saw.

 

Development proceeded apace. Today's Port is by far the most famous of Portuguese wines. It has grown somewhat less popular in England than in the days of its reputation there as a royal and aristocratic drink, but the slack is being picked up by the French, the Japanese and the Americans, who are beginning to discover its many virtues en masse.

 

The history of Madeira Wine is longer and more complex, and will be dealt with in the section on Madeira Wine.

 

TYPES OF WINE

 

PORT

 

Any description of Portuguese wines must always begin with Port, the great traditional wine of the British Empire, whose aristocrats used to "lay down" several bottles at the birth of a son to be drunk when he attained the age of twenty‑one.

 

Port is undoubtedly one of the great wines of the world, and a taste you should not go through life without having experienced. Actually a bold combination of many different tastes, a fine vintage port needs an experienced and discerning palate. It is the kind of wine you save for your very special guests and those very special occasions. More than any other Portuguese wine, it seems to carry with it the spirit of its country; a meditative, mature feel, a deep sweetness and woodiness that seems to recall the exploits of powerful men. It is the Portuguese taste per se, and you ought to have a glassful every day of your Portuguese vacation.

 

Port, like so many great fortified drinks, is the result of attempts by merchants to improve what was an indifferent or only fairly good dry wine. Once the process of fortification was perfected, however, it immediately became apparent that this was one of those of the vine, only possible with just the right combination of soil, sun, climate and workers. Wine growers all over the world are constantly experimenting with fortifying or otherwise adulterating their products, but only in a few places in the world do their efforts result in a Sherry, a Cognac, or the majestic Port.

 

Port Wine grapes are grown in a strictly delineated area on both sides of the upper Douro River. The area fall between the town of Regua, where the growers have their headquarters. and the border with Spain, always basically along the Douro's banks. The grapes must, by law, come from that region.

 

The region, if you drive through it, is extremely picturesque, with high cliffs, steep hills, and the graceful river running always below. It is almost entirely planted with the vines that produce the livelihood for thousands of Portuguese peasants, most of whom do, not live in this difficult region, but only come for the harvest, the plantings, etc. For the region is a very difficult and lonely over, populated by the peculiarities of wine grapes that the best often seem to do best in soil that is inhospitable for any other crop. The French claim that it is just this struggle for growth that gives the grape its best flavor.

 

The climate of the region is forbidding, made of vibrating hot summers and harsh, cold winters.

 

When the vintage comes, it is a folkloristic event seldom topped. From all over Trás‑os‑Montes and the Beiras come the peasants with musical instruments, wives, sweethearts, food, etc. Every night of the harvest is a party, with the music and wine reinvigorating bodies tired from the backbreaking labor.

 

And backbreaking it is, too. Every part of it, from the carrying of the grapes down from the high hills in huge baskets somehow balanced on the back, to the treading of the vintage, which is bitterly cold. This last is done in stone troughs, by teams of men working with arms hooked together, encouraged by music from the instruments and raucous singing. It is a kind of dance, really, and an endurance contest as well, with tired ovens dropping out for a short rest to be replaced by joyous, fresh ovens. It is the kind of work that can only be done by peasants with deep musical traditions of joy in their work, for it is over of the hardest jobs around.

 

This crests. the must, which then begins its tumultuous fermentation, constantly spitting up a thick "manta" (blanket) of grape skins and other pieces. The manta must be continuously pushed back down or it will disturb the fermentation process.

 

The progress of the fermentation is continuously being tested, both for the amount of sweetness achieved and, of course, for alcoholic content. When the proper degree is reached the must is drained finto vats in which there is already brandy to arrest the fermentation.

 

Today much of this process has been replaced by less interesting, mechanical means, not worth describing or seeing.

 

The wine is next put in casks and run by train to Vila Nova de Gaia, the city across the Douro from Porto, which seems to be the same city but, somehow isn't. Despite the difference in name, however, only the most rank pedant would dispute the ides that Port Wine is made in the city of Porto. In fact, it is an interesting law that demarcates not only the are in which the grapes must be grown, but that the wine must be exported from the city of Porto, and not matured in any other place.

 

There are many shippers in Vila Nova de Gaia, and the city of Porto is filled with traditions and legends regarding the behavior of these Englishmen abroad as they became more and more wealthy and eccentric.

 

The most important replica of this British developed product is the famous Factory House, now 184 years old. It is three stories high and a cross between a club and a commercial exchange.

 

The atmosphere prevailing is eighteenth century, the ceilings are painted, and all the glorious traditions of drinking Port Wine are preserved here, as in a museum, even at the same time as the large Port dealers are trying to encourage people to "take the wine less seriously" and to use it in cooking, as a base for wine punches, etc., etc.

 

Inside the Factory House it is a different story. If you have any acquaintance or any excuse you can think of, try to wangle an invitation for one of the Wednesday luncheons still served there.

 

Note how you'll be whisked into another room afterwards for the actual drinking of the Port, since the smells of the food would disturb proper appreciation. The ladies, of course, are not welcome to the traditional Port drinking, as this was always the time when such subjects as the ladies were better off keeping out of were discussed. Be sure not to light your cigar. All must have a chance to taste the wine unadulterated by the smell of smoke. And the decanter is to be passed around the direction of the sun. Oh, there are many traditions to be observed when you drink a fine vintage Port, most of them equally silly but all adding up to reinforce the correct feeling that this liquid is a very special thing.

 

Port wine makers use the "solera" system, described in connection with Madeira wines, but the system is not used exclusively of every other method.

 

Vintage Port

 

When there is an exceptionally good harvest of grapes, and the qualities can vary considerably from year to year, a "vintage" is declared, and the wine makers are on their way to the creation of a classic wine. Usually all the shippers agree on the same year, but it does happen on occasion that the vineyards of one or two have produced grapes far superior to all the others, so that they may declare their own vintage years.

 

Once a vintage is declared, the whole process is done with great care, and the wine is never mixed with that of any other year, as it always is in any other type of Port Wine.

 

Since maturing in the porous casks is quick and not of as high a quality,, a vintage Port is bottled quickly, usually after two years, and the companies make an estimate as to how soon they will be ready to drink. Twenty years is always satisfactory, but many profit by a longer aging in glass.

 

There is a limit, however; unlike Madeira, Port is not immortal and only rarely does it maintain its character much over 35 years. Best to buy the under 30. Never trust a Vintage Port over thirty, you might say.

 

If buying a vintage, it will be very, very expensive, especially one that is ready to drink. Many people, in fact, buy large quantities as an investment, since the price appreciates so rapidly between ten and twenty year old Vintage Port. If you're buying for drinking, however, you'll undoubtedly want to treat the wine properly, so as to get the full benefit.

 

A few of the traditions Nave already been noted, and that of drinking the Port in another room from the meal, as well as that of not smoking while drinking the Port, are useful for enhancing and purifying your enjoyment. The one about dismissing the women from the scene is up to your personal tastes.

 

Vintage Port throws a sediment, or crust, at the bottom of the bottle, so it must be decanted, and that very carefully. It would be a good idea to decant through a layer of muslin, or a very clean funnel made of some metal whose taste will not come off into the wine. Special silver funnels for this purpose are sold in England and America. If you have transported the wine recently, let it rest at least a week until the disturbed sediment has had a chance to clear.

 

Naturally, you will sip the wine very slowly, using the usual tasters' method of holding it in your mouth for a short time and breathing at the same time so as to enjoy the complex combinations of tastes with your olfactory senses. By the way, only fill the glass about halfway, to allow the bouquet its full expression, and be sure to use a clear glass. preferably of fine crystal, so that your guests can enjoy the lovely color of the wine.

 

To buy any of the wines of the thirties, you should be such an expert that anything in this essay will not have been news to you. Most of these are past their prime. Any wine from the sixties can be bought for laying down. Those In between are ready for drinking.

 

Other types of Port

 

The Vintage Port of which we have been speaking Is, though the greatest, also the most rare experience for a Port drinker. It is the other types you will be drinking, even while in Portugal.

 

These include Crusted, Tawny, Ruby, White, and Late Bottled Vintage. These we shall describe one by one.

 

The Crusted Port is in a class with the Vintage, but not as good, as opposed to the others, which only partake of the Vintage qualities like the minor members and hangers‑on at royal court.

 

Crusted is made in the same way and with the same care and respect as Vintage, but not made from the grapes of any one year. If the shipper is trustworthy, the Crusted can be excellent, though never worth aging as long as the Vintage, since development of a Crusted will be erratic the wines of the different years that had been used all‑ going off on their own merry courses of aging. It is, however, a fine wine, and if you buy one you may serve it with the same mixture of pride and absurd traditions that you would use with a Vintage.

 

Next in line is the Tawny, which is no longer a great wine but only a very good one, still, however, requiring great skill in the production.

 

The Tawny is blended with great skill and matures in the casks, which are made of a special oak. Gradually, the purple color fades with the air, the heaviness and some of the fruitiness are alleviated, and the slight amber color arrives which gives it its name.

 

Tawnies 'do not improve in the bottle, and you may drink them as soon as purchased, always, of course, keeping in mind that you must keep the wine in your cellar a few days any time it is shaken in transport.

 

You should serve Tawny in a clear glass, as the color is generally quite attractive, and you may serve it with pride, but dispense with those traditions, as they are a bit over fine for this category of Port.

 

Ruby Port is a fun wine, and if you are doing any cooking or mixing, the one you will use. This wine was once sold cheaply in English Taverns mixed with lemonade, and it was very popular.

 

You‑might want to try it that way yourself. Ladies usually appreciate it. It is very sweet, almost melodramatic, but pleasingly smooth. It is a blend, but much younger than those used in the Tawnies.

 

White Port is, of course, made from white grapes, and may be sweet or dry. The dry is an aperitif and somehow related to the bouquet of Sherry. It must be admitted, however, that it does not hold a candle to the good Sherries. Never mind. It's still quite nice chilled.

 

The Late Bottled Vintages are one of those new improvisations which traditionalists should not be too hasty to condemn. The practice followed here is of taking the grapes from a vintage year and aging them in cask rather than in glass bottles. In other words, speeding up the aging process. The result is, naturally, lighter and with somewhat less character than the normal Vintage Port. It is, however, widely liked and can go at a more popular price.

 

The cynic will quickly see the possible outcome stemming from this new procedure. Since the wine of a vintage year is obviously limited, any Port made by the "Late Bottled Vintage" process is detracting from the total that would have been made by the usual process, thus driving up the erice of that second and superior process. The Late Bottled, being cheaper, will appeal to the newly rich or the newly snobbish, who like to get a bargain and can't tell the difference anyway between the wines made by the one process or the other.

 

Thus, the Late Bottled will eventually drive the other out of production, or so Glose to it that you'll have to be very wealthy indeed to buy what could honestly be referred to as the "real McCoy". We can only hope that the prove honor and tradition of the great winemakers who have run the industry in Porto will keep this process from occurring and prove the cynics wrong.

We are sure they will do it.

 

Here are some of the most reliable names in the Port Wine trade: Sandeman, Dow, Cockburn and Martinez, Taylor, Ferreira, Croft. Graham, A.J. Silva, Rebello Valente, Fonseca, Kopke.

 

The best place in the world for tasting Port Wine is. aside from the Factory House, the Solar do Vinho do Porto. Rua de S. Pedro de Alcantara, 45. Lisbon. This is a veritable museum of Port Wine, where you may purchase over the bar a glass or a bottle of almost any Port Wine ever produced. It's a splendid place, beautifully decorated and reeking with tradition. Go there after dinner, and before going out to see Fados. Then you will know that you're in Portugal.

 

No problem at all visiting one of the wine lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia. Just go ovei there and wait until enough people come for them to start a tour. Most of the lodges have guides who will answer all your questions. Afterwards, you will be given genercus portions of wines to try.

Sandeman's is probably the best set‑up for touring.

 

While in Porto, make arrangements, if you want, to visit one or more of the quintas in the Upper Douro. Especially if you are there during the autumn, it's well worth driving or taking a train up there to see the making of one of the world's great wines.

 

MADEIRA

 

The history of wine‑making on the small Portuguese island of Madeira, which eventually, through the usual combination of lucky accident and skillful intention, brought a great wine to tire world is highly picturesque.

 

It begins practically coincident with the discovery, of the island in 1419 by João Gonçalves, one of the early explores of the Sagres Navigational Group. Mr.‑ Gonçalves' contribution was one that would purple the faces of ecologists today, for that explore, having found an island covered with pine forest, burned it all. No one seems sure what his intentions were perhaps he hated pine trees. At any rate the fire is said to have burned seven years, covering the island with wood ash and changing the nature of the soil so that it would produce ever afterwards a very special grape, unique in the ,world.

 

Madeira is a fortified wine, but the manufacturers did not catch on to this trick until, as records show, the third quarter of the eighteenth century. Even then, the process of adding brandy to the ordinary island wine was considered a cheap trick for the first few years.

 

It was soon discovered that adding brandy, coupled with the long sea voyage of nine months that the barriers underwent on the way to markets in America and England, was producing a superior drink of singular promise.

 

Soon ways were found to reproduce the process of sea shipment. Today the wine is fortified with some cave spirit, then baked in ovens for three or four months at temperatures ranging between 110 and 130 degrees Fahrenheit. This reproduces the heating process the wines used to pass through as the ships on which they traveled went on a course very near the equator. At the same time, the wine is shaken violently, to reproduce the movement of the ship.

 

After this, the wine is simply aged in cask for at least three years, and then aged in bottles for as long as you want. Apparently, Madeira Wine is practically immortal, and continues improving in the bottle. We shall return later to the actual process.

 

As we have explained, the volcanic soil of Madeira Island, improved by the burning of the forest, is ideally suited to the production of a fortified wine.

 

Another propitious condition prevailing on the island is the ideal climate, which is a modified Mediterranean type. The advantage here is a great deal of sun, and a very predictable set of seasons. Very seldom does a misplaced rain knock off or spoil the flowers, or an early frost come to destroy the fruit, as so often happens in cooler, less dependable climates.

 

From the very beginning, the wine‑making process on the island is different from that prevailing anywhere else in the wine world. The vines themselves are not the low‑lying kind planted throughout France, United States, etc. They are planted like the vines of the Minho in Portuguese mainland; that is, they grow high, dangling from trellises, with vegetables planted underneath.

 

This saves space and also has an effect on the grapes, which do not experiente the great heat emanating from the soil during the summer.

 

The irrigation, the cultivation, picking and all work are done in primitive and traditional style, ali highly picturesque for visitors, and all the work accompanied by the lovely singing of the islanders.

 

The vines used are almost all grafts of the old vines onto American root stock. The original vines of the island were destroyed along with the French vines by the dread phylloxera vastatrix bug.

 

The remedy of grafting onto American root stock, which was resistant to the bug, was employed almost universally, and also in Madeira.

 

There were prior to the disease a great many types of grapes used, but today there are four: Malmsey, Sercial, Verdelho and Bual. The wines are made generally from over or the other of these grapes exclusively, rather than, as in Sherry, by a blending of several types.

 

The sweetest and heaviest Madeiras are those made and labelled with the Malmsey or Bual grapes.

 

The Madeira Wines they produce (the bottle is always labeled with the name of the grape) are for after dinner. Bual is more of an acquired taste than Malmsey, though it is a short, happy path to acquiring that taste. The Malmsey is fruity and a great favorite, without as much Madeiran character as the Bual.

 

What to have with these two wines? Cheese is not unpopular with Bual. This is the way the Portuguese like it. The Malmsey may be treated like many a sweet, fruity wine and drunk with cakes, nuts, an apple, etc.

 

Less sweet than either of these is the wine called Verdelho, made from the grape of the same narre. This is the wine with the most pronounced Madeiran flavor, which may be faintly reminiscent of those pine forests burnt by Gonçalves.

 

The wine called Verdelho goes with soup courses, but has the history association of going admirably with a slice of Madeira cake, an item which you may well go your whole life without hearing of again unless you move in those English circles where Vintage Port with Stilton is still trotted out at the doff of a guest's bowler.

 

The driest of the Madeira wines is that produced from the Sercial grape. Great tare is taken in the fortification process not to allow the addition of spirit to arrest the fermentation, leaving undigested sugar, which is what makes sweet fortified wines sweet. Like most good dry wines, there is skill employed throughout the process. The grape harvest itself is the smallest of all the types grown on the island. The grape is small too, and delicate, said to be similar to the Riesling.

 

The wine from it requires long aging ‑ nine to ten years is advisable for full development of the delicate flavor.

 

Sercial should be taken as an aperitif. Some find it goes nicely with a plate of cold shrimp. Others like it with pieces of smoked ham, though the taste affinity here is not the best.

 

These are the main types of Madeira wine, the types you are likely to see exported and standing on the shelf at your supermarket. There are a few other labels, however, which you find in Portugal and a stray few outside. Due to wine snobbism, great claims are sometimes made by, those who have been agile to sample these. You may as well know the names, and while you're in Portugal give them a try.


 

One such funny name is "Rainwater", named presumably because it's supposed to have some of the good qualities of rain, though why anyone would want their wine to taste like water, however good the water, is a mystery. There is no guarantee with this, as it's a blend and no rules as to which grapes should be blended.

 

Another blended Madeira is called Camara de Lobos, and is supposed to come from grapes grown in that seaside town, which you ought, incidentally, to visit; it's highly picturesque. The trouble is, though this area of Madeira is supposed to produce the best grapes, the area is not really controlled properly. Still, this is one of the blended Madeiras that is definitely worth a try.

 

More names are Leacock's St. John, Estreito and Companario, which you will have to try yourself ‑ all quite erratic.

 

There are vintage Madeiras up to two‑hundred years old, and said to be still improving in their bottles. The price for vintage is, of course, quite stiff, since they are rare, but these are true gems of wine. If your palate is sensitive enough to tell the difference between a fifty year old Madeira and the same Madeira after it has aged another ten years, it may be worth your while to purchase a vintage Madeira.

 

The vintage for Madeira takes place in the usual months of September and October, the best time for wine enthusiasts to come to the island.. The climate is crises and fresh, and the folkways of the peasants who work in the wine trade can be observed and appreciated. There is a great deal of singing and dancing as the grapes are trod in the traditional foot method. The wine troughs are long, stone ones. Wine presses are replacing the foot method, and this will be a shame, since only by‑this method can the stalks and pies be prevented from being crushed and adding their bitter flavor, however faint, to that of the juice.

 

After the pressing, the peasants carry the juice down the hills to Funchal. It is carried in goatskins often made of the skin of an entire animal.

 

What happens in Funchal, the baking, churning and so forth, has been described above. We have not spoken, however, of the solera system of production, which Madeira shares with Port and Sherry.

 

Here's how it works. The individual wine company must first begin by creating a "bank" of Madeiras, which begins with a number of casks of wine from a particular year being laid to age. Each cask contains about 500 bottles of wine. Above these casks are later added casks of a younger age, and above these casks of a still younger age, keeping the types of grapes always within the same "solera".

 

Every time the solera owner comes to make the wine, he draws it from the casks on the bottom, which are then filled up again with wine from the casks over these, and those filled with wine from the casks over them, etc., etc., all the way to the top, where the casks are filled with the new vintage.

 

This is the system in theory, though in practice it is great deal more complex. Good management of the system is an important factor in the final quality of the Madeiras. Done properly, it ensures that the qualities of the oldest wines will always be present in every product, and that generally the same quality can be counted on year after year.

 

Because of the solera system, vintages are no longer pure. You may buy a wine of a particular age, but that does not mean that all the tastes in the wine come from the vintage of that year. It is simply the year in which it was bottled. There are many good and reliable old firms handling Madeira Wines. Some of the best known and most reputable are Sandeman (good Sercial), Gordon (standard types), Leacock and, of the best known, Blandy's.

 

VINHOS VERDES ‑ GREEN WINES

 

Vinhos Verdes (Green Wines) are among the great surprises of Portugal. Here, in a country you thought made only the great sweet wines of Porto, and Madeira, is a staggeringly enjoyable,, delightfully. different little wine, produced cheaply and with much variety, that mates perfectly with the many fish dishes of the country.

 

We say that these wines are a surprise, simply because you find them very rarely in the United States, and even then in the worst possible condition, for reasons that shall be explained. In Europe and England they are also rare, and in other places practically unheard of.

 

The reason they are not worth buying in the United States, is because there a wine with even a little sparkle is taxed as though it were a true sparkling wine, and so these Vinhos Verdes, which are only petillant, are allowed to go flat before shipping, destroying one of their most charming qualities.

 

A Vinho Verde, by the way, is not really green. It is produced from green grapes that have not fully matured. They are white wines ‑ that is, the ones worth considering. There are red "green" wines, but they are nothing special.

 

Vinhos Verdes are produced in one of the most beautiful, gentle parts of Portugal, mostly enclosed in the province of Minho 'and parts of Beira Litoral and Douro. The region is historically the oldest part of the country, filled with castles, cathedrals, shrines, Celtic ruins and Joanine architecture. It is almost always green, and very frequently raining. The climate is maritime, and optimum temperatures for human efficiency prevail.

 

The actual vines of the Vinhos Verdes add a great deal to the beauty of the region; they are not grown in the stunted rows common to most wine producing regions of the world; but are trailed from trellises, from hedges, allowed to grow on the rooftops of the houses, and cover the scenery everywhere with a brilliant green that seems as though you could almost swim in it.

 

In this part of Portugal the land is thickly populated. Everyone has to make the most of what land he has, and so the practice carne about of letting the grapes grow high and planting vegetables underneath. Another consideration, which may or may not have originally been intentional, is that of keeping the ripe grapes off the ground in the heat.

 

Because of the grapes being picked young, they undergo a second fermentation in the bottle, which gives them the petillance described above, a light sparkle which is hardly even bubbly but seems to give added energy and much added interest to the wine. The quality is delicate, and only stays with the uncorked bottle a short time so it's wise not to open more than you can drink at over sitting.

 

The Vinhos Verdes should be drunk young and well chilled. If the waiter brings an unchilled bottle, send it back without hesitation. Order it especially with shellfish and also with any other fish, keeping in mind that it is usually quite dry.

 

There are six sub‑types, which are:

 

Monção ‑ lower acidity than the rest and higher alcoholic content. The Alvarinho grape is used, and is the best of the many Vinhos Verdes grapes.

 

Lima ‑ those grown along the River Lima.

 

Braga ‑ near the center of the demarcated region. Basto ‑ produced in the Basto Lands.

Amarante and Penafiel.

 

Each has its own special character, which you will enjoy discovering. Some of the most reliable producers are: Alvarinho de Monção (best flavor and bouquet of all), Casal Garcia (less unusual but very popular), Gatao (don't let the Pop Art bottle put you off), Meireles (strong Vinho Verde character), Souto Vedro (only if you really grow to love this type of wine. Very dry with much assertiveness). Other important names are Casal Mendes, Lagosta, Casa de Calçada, Tres Marias and others.

 

COLARES

 

When you come to choosing your red table wine in Portugal, always examine the list or ask the waiter to see if there is a Colares available, the older the better. For this is beyond a doubt the very best of the Portuguese reds, a very serious contender in the wine world, and over which can provide a clue to the answer of the controversy over phylloxera vastatrix, the bug which destroyed the vines almost everywhere in Europe during the Iate nineteenth century. Colares is over of the few wines whose vines survived this disease. The others are all grafted onto American root stock. Much wine literature has it that the pre‑phylloxera vines were immensely superior.

 

Taste the Colares and you may well agree with them, though what good it will do you is hard to tell.

 

Colares wines have been in production for seven hundred years in the same small area at the foot of the Sintra Mountains.

 

Their planting is highly unusual. The soil is sandy for about eight feet deep. Planters must dig down to the clay base for planting, a process whose difficulties will be understood by anyone who has ever tried to dig in sand.

 

The resultant product, as we have tried to stress, is excellent and hard to come by. Don't miss the chance while in Portugal to try this remarkable wine, unlike any other red you've ever drunk.

 

DAO WINES

 

The Dão Region, lying along a large stretch. along the banks of the River Mondego, northeast of Coimbra, is potentially over of the important wine producing regions of Europe. It is already producing the most popular high quality red in Portugal, and some of the whites are even better than the reds.

 

The region itself, demarcated only in 1912, covers about 1,250 square miles. This area is somewhat deceptive, however, since only about five per cent can be cultivated for wine grapes. The rest is thickly forested or extremely rocky with gravite or schists.

 

Driving through the Dão region is a pleasure. The scenery is hilly; there are frequent lovely rivers and streams; pine forests filled with ferns and lovely flowers cool the narrow roads. The vives themselves are grown along wires stretched between larga gravite pillars, or allowed to grow in any way, along potes, bentover trees, as hedges, etc., etc.

 

The region is fairly high for a wine producer, and the climate has a healthy effect on the production, in that it becomes bitterly cold during the period right after the vintage, slowing down the fermentation process and creating a smoothness in the wine that is almost velvety.

 

The characteristics of a good Dão red include deep and flavorful body, the smoothness of which I have spoken, strong alcoholic content, a unique taste neither of the Burgundy nor the Bordeaux families have, and a particularly aristocratic bouquet.

 

The whites, highly touted, are not so readily found outside of Portugal, but deserve to be more heavily imported by those countries to whom the Erie jacking of French wine shippers has become more than a nuisance. For the whites are a good replacement of the French. They have quite enough character to accompany your favorite fish. The taste is a unique novelty, unabashed, yet friendly and clean. Unless the occasion is so serious that it requires a French wine to impress the guests, there is no reason why a white Dão cannot fill the bill.

 

Unfortunately, all the Dão wines are blended from various small vintners all over the demarcated area. This means, of course, that you cannot get any of the really great wines from specific small parishes as you have in France. There is a federation (Federação dos Vinicultores do Dão), which has helped by its constant checking of quality to make the very good Dao Wines what they are today. The practice of estate bottling is constantly being suggested to them. We add ove more voice to those who say that there is potential here for a great wine if the proper methods are used.

 

Many grapes are used, the most prominent being the Tourigo, Preto and Mortagua vines. Some of the types are pretty deficient, others excellent.

 

Look for a Dão of six or seven years, certainly no less than three and probably no more than ten.

Your waiter and the list of prices will help you toward picking the particular Dão you want. We like the over called Grão Vasco, made by Vinacola do Vale do Dão.

 

BUCELAS WINES

 

The region for Bucelas is Glose to Lisbon, actually only about 22 kilometers upriver. It is a strictly demarcated are, as are all those of which we have so far spoken.

 

We are speaking here of a dry white wine, produced by the Arinto vive, not especially strong, rather light, playful and pleasant, with a delightful bouquet. The region is small and the production small, but the search for a Bucelas is well worth the trouble. It is practically a guarantor of a good mood.

 

SETÚBAL MOSCATEL

 

A sweet dessert wine. Be sure to ask for Setúbal, as the other muscatels in Portugal can sometimes leave you grasping at your throat. Once you hit the right over, you'll find a very sweet wine, amber in color and with a very powerful muscat bouquet.

 

The region is south of Lisbon ‑ this is, in fact, the only demarcated area in Portugal that is south of Lisbon ‑ near to and north of the town, Setúbal. The vines used most extensively are Moscatel Roxo and Moscatel de Setúbal.

 

CARCAVELOS

 

This is the last demarcated area with which we shall deal. The region was demarcated in 1908 and lies inland from the mouth of the Tagus, a little east of Cascais. The wine is red, sweet and mildly aromatic. You may drink it as a dessert wine.

 

ROSE WINES

 

Probably second only to Port in popularity for a Portuguese wine in the United States, roses, especially that of the House of Mateus, Nave been remarkably well promoted. Rose wines are, of course, always popular in places where people have difficulties with food‑wine affinities, it being a safe compromise. so they think, to serve a rose with almost anything.

 

But this is not the total reason for the great popularity of the Portuguese roses. There is something democratic about them. Never rising to the upper classes, they also do not descend. They are plodding and dependable. The best qualities of reds and whites are beyond their reach, and they cannot even be judged by those qualities. In faca, they can hardly be spoken of in wine terminology at all. The vocabulary of the soft‑drink enthusiast is far more applicable.

 

There are scientific reasons for this democratic quality, with which we will not bore you. At any rate, the type of grape used does not matter much, since the best grapes are never used for rose wines. The region of origin is not demarcated. You can pretty much start drinking them as

aperitifs before the meal and continue on with them, whatever you may be eating. Be sure to chill them, but if you forget, you can even use an ice cube, like in coca cola.

 

Our favorite is actually the ever popular Mateus, with its attractive bottle and the label depicting that wonderful mansion, still being lived in but quite often open for visitation. You should drop in for a visit if you're in the region.

 

LAGOA

 

This is the only important wine in the south. The area of production is in the Algarve. Reds can have all the roughness you would expect from a hot, almost African climate. The whites are much more palatable. Alcoholic content is high, about 12 degrees.

 

BAIRRADA

 

This wine producing region is between the mountains of Caramulo and Bugaco. Most of the wines produced here are sparkling. The sparkling whites are the best produced here. This region actually produces a very high portion of the wine consumed in Portugal. Reds are quite strong and full bodied.

 

RIBATEJO WINES

 

Ribatejo, producing both reds and whites for popular consumption, is actually one of the foremost producing areas in the country in terms of quantity. The regions today producing the best are Cartaxo and Almeirim, the format for the reds and the latter for the whites. They are both full‑bodied.

 

LAFOES WINES

 

Producing a few very fine wines and perhaps soon to become entitled to a demarcation of origin. The region lies close to the Vinhos Verdes region, between that and the Dão ateu: the wines are closer in character to the Vinhos Verdes. A delicious white wine is mude hera from the Sercial grape, which we encountered when speaking of Madeira, and from the Arinto. Reds of quality are also produced here from the Mural and Tourigo grupes.

 

LAMEGO

 

The town is famous for its sparkling whites, which go well with the smoked hum also produced here. A sparkling red is also made here but is inferior to the white.

 

Reds produced here are full‑bodied and strong. Production is very large. Alcoholic content high. The whites are actually of greater worth, delicate and aromatic. Look for Alenquer and Cadavel.

 

PINHEL

 

Light reds and whites. The production at the is in the River Coa Valley. Both reds and whites are pleasant and drinkable without pretense.

 

ALENTEJO WINES

 

Nona of the wines in this at the are outstanding, but if you happen to be visiting in the region, it's a good idea to keep a few names in mind to avoid some very bad ones. The names to ask for are Borba, Redondo and Vidigueira. Even then we can guarantee only that it will be drinkable. These are people who like their wine plain and coarse.

 

ALCOBAQA

 

In the town and region of Pedro and Ines de Castro are produced wines of remarkable quality, especially the whites, which are somewhat like a Hock. This is no wonder, since the Cistercian Monks who controlled the region for centuries were very fond of good food and wine, and made certain to develop agriculture and viniculture extensively. White wines from Obidos and from Caldas da Rainha are quite special, stand up to aging, and so on. The whites of Obidos have a fine bouquet.

 

BUQACO

 

A freak wine with a history. These wines are sold in only two places we know of the palace hotel restaurant in the Forest of Bucaco and the Astoria Hotel by the river in Coimbra.

 

For a description of Bugaco Forest see Chapter 4, Tourist Routes, and be sure to read the history before you drink the wine. These wines, people will tell you, are from the personal cellar of King Carlos, who was the king responsible for finishing the building of the hotel‑palace spoken of above. They are very good wines, testifying well to the taste of the plump King, whose hobby was painting, mainly very fancy menus for the banquets he used to have served, at which all the royalty present, it is to be presumed, drank this wine.

 

BRANDIES

 

Not much to say about Portuguesa brandias. About the best we tasted was the private house brandy at the Restaurant Escondidinho, and you won't be finding that anywhere except in that fine restaurant of Porto.

 

Actually, there is a better after dinner drink available in Portugal, called Bagaceira. We would recommend it ovar brandy. If you want to try a Portuguesa brandy, take Carvalho Ribeiro or Ferreira Reserva, the best in the country, for our money.