A Walk On Massada
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This walk will take at least an hour, even if you browse only cursorily at each
of the numbered locations on our map. But remember that the numbers on our map,
which go anti-clockwise, do not correspond with some of the numbers atop
Massada, so you should disregard the latter. We also assume that you have
entered the gate on the eastern side, overlooking the Dead Sea. Recently,
shaded rest areas, including bathroom and drinking facilities, have been added.
Walk across to No. 1 on the northern tip of the mountain. This is the
upper terrace and living quarters of Herod's private hanging palace-villa. The
dwelling rooms are paved with mosaics which are among the oldest in Israel.
Note the semi-circular porch at the northern edge.
Now walk back to the store-houses at No. 2. Built from dolomite stone
quarried on Massada, they were destroyed by the Zealots and by earthquakes.
Remains of wine, oil and flour jars, together with coins, were found here. As
with other restored buildings on Massada, everything below the painted black
line is original.Between the store-houses and the steps leading down to the
middle terrace of the palace-villa is the large bath-house, No. 3. There is a
hot room, cold room, tepid room and disrobing room. The round clay bricks in
the hot room supported the upper floor. Impressions of clay pipes for hot air
circulation can be seen on the wall plaster. The small bathing pool covering
frescoes in the disrobing room was added by the Zealots.
Walk west towards the steps and descend to the middle terrace, No. 4,
about 20 m. down. This was built for Herod's leisure hours. The circular
building probably had rows of pillars supporting a roof. More steps continue
down to the lower terrace, No. 5, about 15 m. below. Again, this was erected
for leisure and pleasure. The Herodian artists tried to give the impression
that the plastered walls were panelled in stone and marble when painting the walls
between the columns and Corinthian capitals. The bath-house on the east, to
which access is forbidden, contained the skeletons of a young man, woman and
child. The scales of armour, arrows, inscribed potsherds and parts of a prayer
shawl found next to the man can be seen in the museum at the foot of Massada.
The sandals and plaited hair of the woman are on display at the Shrine of the
Book in Jerusalem. They are believed to have been among the last defenders of
Massada. Coins inscribed with ``The Freedom of Zion,'' and food, were also
found on this terrace.
Return to the summit and walk to the administration building, No. 6,
adjoining the western end of the store- houses. There is a mikve (ritual bath)
in its northeastern corner.
Now walk along the casemate wall on the west. Built around the entire
summit, it was a popular Herodian structure with double walls partitioned into
rooms for stores or dwellings. Many of the Zealots lived in them.
The Synagogue is No. 7 on the walk, overlooking Silva's camp. It is the
oldest synagogue in Israel. Two parchment scrolls buried within it contained
fragments from the books of Deuteronomy and Ezekiel. Also found were coins from
the revolt, pottery inscribed with Hebrew names, Herodian jars, burned
furniture, glass and a wash basin.
A short distance away, at No. 8, is another casemate room where the
first of fourteen biblical, sectarian and apocryphal scrolls was discovered on
Massada. Written on parchment, it was from the Book of Psalms. Here, too, were
found parts of Leviticus and a scroll believed to have been written by the
Essenes of Qumran. Seventeen silver shekels, struck during the five years of
the revolt and inscribed ``Jerusalem the Holy,'' were also extracted from the
rubble.
Cross over to the 5th-century Byzantine chapel at No. 9. The mosaic
floor is decorated with rings around pomegranates, figs, oranges and grapes.
Walk southwest to the Western Palace at No. 10. It is divided into an administrative building, dwelling quarters, a service wing and storerooms. The only coloured Herodian mosaic floor on Massada is in the entrance hall to the throne room. There are also humble, Zealot additions, including a cooking stove. A small bath-house is in the service chambers.
From the edge you can see the ramp and the western entrance.
Continue over to the swimming pool at No. 11. Steps lead down to the
base where coins of the revolt were discovered. Nos. 12 and 13, east and south
of the swimming pool, are Herodian villas in which the Zealots added walls and
partitions.
Walk east to the niched circular structure at No. 14. It is dubbed the
Columbarium because it resembles a dove cote. However, experiments have shown
that the holes are too small to house pigeons. No one knows with any certainty
what its purpose was but one theory is that the niches held the ashes of
non-Jews cremated on Massada.
Proceed to No. 15, a lookout tower on the southern wall high above Roman
siege camps. A few metres below the casemate wall, but out of bounds to
visitors, are a number of caves in which the excavators found the skeletons of
twenty-five men, women, children and an embryo. These, and the skeletons found
in the palace-villa, are believed to be the remains of the Jewish defenders.
They were buried with full military honours near the Roman ramp on the western
base of the mountain.
Turn east, towards one of the many cisterns at No. 16. Steps lead down
to the enormous reservoir, cut into the rock. Floodwaters were channelled
through a hole in the roof.
Walk northeast towards the wall and stop at the mikve at No. 17. It
proves decisively the ardent religious nature of the defenders of Massada.
There are three pools. The smallest is for washing hands and feet before
immersion. Diagonally opposite it is a pool to collect rainwater. A pipe
connects this with the actual mikve.
Continue along the eastern casemate wall, observing the cramped quarters
in which many of the Zealots lived for so long. Most of these quarters
contained their household utensils, but the majority of the rooms are fenced
off and may not be entered because of the danger of collapse.
The wall leads up to the Snake Path gate by which you entered Massada.
From Massada you can take either the road to Eilat or the one to
Jerusalem.