Caiaphas' House: site within grounds of Couvent Armenien St. Sauveur, Mt. Zion. Where Caiaphas imprisoned Jesus. There are Byzantine and Crusader remains and Armenian graves near the church.
(Walk No. 1, Bus Nos. 1,13, 20)

*Calvary: where Jesus was crucified. See Church of Holy Sepulchre (Stations X to XIII).
(Walk No. 1 )

Canion Yerushalayim: The largest shopping mall in the Middle East opened in March 1993. It houses eight cinemas and 180 shops, including well-known boutiques, restaurants and good cafes. Special events include fashion shows, dance and other entertainment. The 100,000-sq. m. complex situated in Malha cost $85,000,000 to build and also provides a baby-sitting service and a car wash. Open: Sun. -Thurs. 9.30 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri. 9.30 a.m.- 2.30 p.m. Opens again one hour after Shabbat.
(Bus. Nos. 6, 24, 31)

*Cardo: Rehov Hayehudim, Jewish Quarter. Remains of Roman road laid down in the 5th century CE, once the main thoroughfare of the city. Includes remains of Israelite walls and tower, and Byzantine and Crusader structures. Restored and opened to the public. Includes an information centre and a shopping area with some exclusive boutiques. Toward the end of the Cardo there is a duplicate of the Madaba mosaic map and a slide show (free). The site is illuminated and open also at night.
(Walk No. 1)

*Cathedral of St. James: see Armenian Orthodox Monastery, Armenian Quarter.

Cellar (or Chamber) of the Holocaust: Mt. Zion, near David's Tomb. There's a synagogue and a museum to remind one of the Nazi death camps. Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
(Walk No. 1. Bus Nos. l, 38)

Cenacle (Cenaculum, Room of the Last Supper): Mt. Zion. Accepted by Christians except the Syrian Orthodox as the place where Jesus and his disciples met for the Last (Passover) Supper and where the Holy Ghost later appeared to the Apostles. It served as a centre for the first Christians and was attached to the 4th-century Hagia Zion Basilica subsequently destroyed by the Persians and rebuilt by the Crusaders in 1100. The Crusader church was destroyed in 1219 by Moslems who by 1551 had evicted the last Franciscans from the mount and turned it into a strictly Moslem preserve. The room of the Last Supper is situated one floor above King David's Tomb.
(Walk No. 1. Bus No. 1 , 13, 20)

Chapel of the Ascension: off the Mount of Olives Road, near the Tomb of Hulda the Prophetess. The dome was added by Moslems above a Christian shrine around the rock from which Jesus ascended to the heavens and upon which his footprint may be seen. Apparently, the Dome of the Ascension provided the visual inspiration for the Dome of the Rock it is not to be confused with the Dome of Ascension on the Temple Mount or the Tower of Ascension.
(Walk No. 4, Bus Nos. 42 and 43 from Damascus Gate)

*Chapel of the Flagellation: within Franciscan Monastery of the Flagellation, which includes Station II of the Cross, Via Dolorosa. The traditional spot where Jesus was scourged nearby is the Chapel of the Condemnation and the Franciscan Faculty of Biblical and Archaeological Studies, which includes a library and a museum.
(Walk No. 3)

*Christian Quarter: northwestern section of Old City. With few exceptions, all the residents here are Christians. First established in the 4th century CE when the Church of the Holy Sepulchre was erected, the area is bounded by the city-wall in the north and the west and by David St. - Bazaar St. and Souq Khan-ez-Zeit to the south and the east, respectively. Patriarchates, monasteries, churches, hospices and charitable and educational establishments abound here.
(Walk No. 3)

Church of the Dormition: Mt. Zion. Consecrated in 1910, the basilica commemorates the death of the Virgin Mary. Crypt has a life-sized effigy of her. Note the golden mosaic on the inside of the dome above the main altar, and the signs of the Zodiac underfoot. The church was damaged during the wars of 1948 and 1967. It is a well-known venue for organ recitals. Open daily (including Sunday) until sundown closed 12-2 p.m.
(Walk No. 1. Bus Nos. l, 13, 20)

*Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Stations X to XIV): in the Christian Quarter the easiest approach - if you aren't following the Stations of the Cross - is through Jaffa Gate, down David Street (which leads into the bazaar) and left at Christian Quarter Road or Muristan Street further down.
First built in the 4th century CE by Constantine's mother Helena over the site of a Roman pagan temple to Venus, this Christian holy of holies (which today bears no resemblance to the original construction) encloses the area formed by the last five Stations of the Cross. Helena was the world's first and most successful archaeologist - wherever she dug she found exactly what she was determined to find. Showing little respect for Jesus' burial place, the Persians early in the 7th century destroyed the basilica, which was rebuilt by the Crusaders in the 12th century. By the beginning of the 19th century travellers reported that Moslem so-called guards lounged about the place in an offensively relaxed fashion. In 1927, the basilica was hit by an earthquake. Destroyed and rebuilt many times, the church is shared by six Christian communities.
The main entrance is on the south side where the building and decoration around the portals date to the Crusaders. Immediately as you walk in, upstairs, to your right, are Stations X, XI, XII and XIII which are commemorated by the two Chapels of Golgotha. This is where Jesus was stripped, nailed, killed and removed from the cross. The Greeks own the chapel on the left, where the cross was fixed the Franciscans own the one on the right where Jesus was impaled. Directly below this area (Calvary), downstairs, is the Chapel of Adam around the rock of Golgotha, which was said to have cracked during the earthquake that marked the crucifixion. At a spot facing the entrance is a red slab of stone where Jesus was anointed before burial. The circular slab to the left (enclosed by rails) marks the point from which the three women watched the crucifixion (this belongs to the Armenians, as does the chapel up the stairs from here). Next is the Rotunda - enormous pillars, a hideous cupola at the centre of which is the Holy Sepulchre two enclosures here: the Chapel of the Angel, showing part of the stone used to seal the tomb, and Station XIV, the tomb itself (with room for not more than four or five people a benevolent-looking, white-bearded priest offers to light candles). Behind the edicule is the tomb of Joseph of Arimathea and the Chapel of the Syrian-Jacobites the Copts, too, have a chapel here. Opposite the entrance (to the Sepulchre) is a Greek chapel with a stone at the centre indicating the centre of the earth. To the right, beyond the Sepulchre, is the Chapel of Mary Magdalene where the resurrected Jesus is said to have first revealed himself. This leads to the Franciscan chapel and a fragment of the Column of Flagellation. Following the extended gallery (Arches of the Virgin), you come to the Prison of Christ, a Greek chapel, as is the next one, the Chapel of Longinus (the Centurion who pierced Jesus' side). An Armenian chapel comes next, where Roman troops divided Jesus' raiment amongst themselves. Downstairs, the eerie Chapel of St. Helena and the cave where the cross was found in the 4th century. Back on ground level, walking towards the main entrance, is the (Greek) Chapel of the Mocking where Jesus sat and was insulted by Roman troops, and an entrance leading to the living quarters of the Greek monks who are the current custodians of the basilica. A group of Ethiopian monks live on the roof of the church, and possess two chapels in an adjoining building. The basilica is open from 4.30 a.m.-7 p.m. Greek Orthodox mass is celebrated at 1 p.m. daily Armenian mass at 2.30 p.m. Roman Catholic mass between 4 and 7 p.m. There is a daily Franciscan procession in the basilica at 4 p.m.
(Walk No. 3)

Church of Pater Noster: Jesus gave the world the Lord's Prayer somewhere near the site of this 19th-century Car-melite church on the Mount of Olives. In the 4th century, Queen Helena (the super-archaeologist who, it will be recalled, commissioned the first Church of the Holy Sepulchre) built an Olive Tree (``Eleona'') Church here to remind residents and visitors of Jesus' prophecy concerning the destruction of Jerusalem. In today's Pater Noster Cloister, the interesting feature is the Lord's Prayer painted on coloured tiles in 44 languages.
(Walk No. 4)

*Church of St. Anne: just before the start of the Via Dolorosa, in the Moslem Quarter. To the right as you come in from Lions' Gate. The portals lead to a pleasant courtyard and to the church, which was built by the Crusaders and is an imposingly bare rock construction vaulting upwards with enormous columns - ascetic simplicity - no pictures or painted walls, etc. - windows of plain glass, perfectly plain. Downstairs, a small chapel marks Mary's birthplace. The history of the site is a familiar one: the first basilica to honour Mary was probably built by the Empress Eudoxia in the 5th century, destroyed by the Persians in 614, rebuilt by the Crusaders, converted to a Moslem religious centre by Saladin, etc. After the Crimean war, Napoleon III was presented with the site in gratitude for the help he'd given the Turks the church was restored and in 1878 placed under the care of the White Fathers. The Pools of Bethesda, around which archaeologists excavated a Byzantine basilica and Hasmonaean bath, is where Jesus healed a cripple on the Sabbath. Open: 8 a.m. - 12 noon and 2 - 5 p.m. Closed Sundays.
(Walk No. 3)

*Church of St. John the Baptist: small, domed, situated just off Christian Quarter Road and David Street. The present structure dates to the 11th century and was apparently built over 5th-century Byzantine ruins. Greek Orthodox priests guard a largish splinter of the True Cross.

Church of St. Mary Magdalene: on the slope above the Basilica of the Agony, a typically Russian-looking church (onion-shaped domes, 16th-century Muscovite style), which could be transplanted to the heart of the Kremlin without any danger of physical rejection. It was built in the late 19th century by Czar Alexander III who wanted to do something for his late mother. Grand Duchess Elizabeth (killed by the Bolsheviks) and other Russian royals are buried here. The icons and other paintings inside repay close scrutiny. Open Tues., Thurs. 10 a.m. - 12 noon.
(Walk No. 4)

Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu (at the Cock's Crow): Ma'aleh Hashalom, Mt. Zion. Consecrated in 1931. The Apostle Peter heard a cock crow and wept with remorse for having thrice denied Jesus (Luke 22: 54-62). A passage of ancient steps leads from here to the Kidron Valley and could have been used by Jesus after the Last Supper when he left the Cenacle for Gethsemane.
(Bus No. 1)

*Citadel (see also Tower of David, Museum of the History of Jerusalem): to the right as you walk into the Old City from Jaffa Gate. It was built by Herod in 24 BCE and it might for all anyone knows be standing over the fortress from which David first saw Bathsheba. Herod was a cruel, murderous ruler but he was also capable of thoughtful gestures like naming towers after a brother (Phasael), a friend (Hippicus) and a wife (Mariamne - whom he later killed). The northeast tower (Phasael's) is erroneously called David's Tower (the view from here is excellent as it's the highest point in the Old City). When the Romans under Titus tore down the city they left this part (always a dominant defence spot) more or less intact.
(Walk No. 1. Bus Nos.1, 3, 13, 19, 20, 38)

City Centre: the commercial heart of the city sits around the triangle formed by Jaffa Road, King George Street and Ben Yehuda Street. The department stores and many of the restaurants are to be found here. Most of the bus routes include stops in the centre. A large stretch of Ben Yehuda is a pedestrian mall (``midrehov'') with outdoor cafes.
(Bus Nos. 4, 5, 6, 7,19, 15, 18, 21)

City Hall: Safra Square. Guided tours in English every Monday at 9.30 a.m. Fee.

City of David and Warren's Shaft: Excavations at this site above the Gihon spring have revealed twenty-five layers of settlement, including the ancient walls built in the 18th century BCE, remains of Canaanite and Jebusite cities, ruins of buildings from the days of the kings of Judah, and the ``House of Bullae'' - a central archive where fifty-one clay seals were discovered. Warren's Shaft, named after the explorer who discovered it, is an impressive underground water system dating from the period of the kings of Judah at the exit from the Dung Gate. Fee. Open: Sun.-Thurs. 9 a.m.-5 p.m., Fri. 9 a.m.-3 p.m.
(Bus Nos. 1, 38)