Mahane Yehuda: colourful open market adjoining Rehov Yafo, four streets west of Herut Square. Especially busy on Thursdays, Fridays and holiday eves.
(Bus Nos. 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 11, 13, 14, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 32, 35, 39, 40)

*Mameluke Madrasahs: Scattered throughout the Moslem Quarter. Islamic theological seminary buildings, some 700 years old.
(Walk No. 2)

Mandelbaum Gate: (also the title of a novel by Muriel Spark): demolished after the 1967 war, it stood at the junction of Shmuel Hanavi, St. George and Shivtei Yisrael Streets. It was part of an unfortunately situated house (rather than a ``gate'') which once belonged to a Dr. Mandelbaum (who sensibly fled the flying buckshot and mortars) and was used as a frontier checkpoint for Christian tourists entering Israel from Jordan. The Israeli convoy to Mt. Scopus prior to the Six Day War passed through here once every two weeks.
(Bus No. l)

Mea She'arim: The quarter of Jerusalem's ultra-Orthodox communities. North of Shivtei Israel Street, or up Straus Street from the corner of Jaffa Road and King George. Here about one thousand ultra-Orthodox Jews live the life of the Polish shtetl (Jewish village). Some of them do not acknowledge the State of Israel created by Zionists as it could hinder the coming of the Messiah. The entire area is closed to motor traffic on the Sabbath. Visitors should make sure they are modestly dressed (no short pants or sleeveless dresses).
(Walk No. 5. Bus Nos. l, 3,1 l, 29)

Military Cemetery on Mount Herzl: situated on the slope to the north as you walk back along Herzl Boulevard in the direction of the city centre. This is the resting place of Israelis who fell in all the wars since the War of lndependence in 1948. Open every day of the year.
(Bus Nos. 13, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 39, 40)

*Model of the First Temple Period: Rachel Yanait Ben-Zvi Youth Centre of Jerusalem Studies, corner of Plugot Hakotel St. and Shonei Halachot St., Jewish Quarter. Includes a three-dimensional audio-visual show. Open: Sun.-Thurs. 9 a.m. - 4 p.m., Fri. 9 a.m. - 1 p.m. Please call for reservation.

Model of the Second Temple: in grounds of Holyland Hotel, Bayit Vegan. Scale model (1:50) of Jerusalem in 66 CE at beginning of great revolt against Romans. Constructed as far as possible of original materials used at time, including marble, stone, wood, copper and iron. Sources used were Mishna, Tosephta, both Talmuds, Josephus and New Testament. Open: Every day 8 a.m. - 5 p.m. Entrance fee.
(Bus No. 21)

Mormon University: Mt. Scopus. The centre hosts Sunday evening concerts and public tours of the building (Tues. - Fri. from 10 a.m.).
(Bus Nos 4a, 9, 28)

Monastery of the Cross: Valley of the Cross. Believed to mark site of tree from which cross was made for Jesus' crucifixion. Sixth-century monastery restored in the beginning of the 11th century. Recently re-opened to the public after being closed for several years for complete repair and renovation. Open Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. Entrance fee.
(Bus Nos. 9, 17,19, 22, 24)

Monastery of Martyrius: Ma'aleh Adumim. Archaeological site from the Byzantine era. It was once a stopping point on the road from Jerusalem to Jericho. Open Sun. - Thurs. 8 a.m. - 4 p.m. Fri. 8 a.m. - 1 p.m. Entrance fee.
(Bus No. 173)

Montefiore's Windmill: This quaint windmill was situated on the Israel-Jordan armistice line between 1948 and 1967. Mill and museum open Sun.-Thurs. 9 a.m-4 p.m., Fri. 9 a.m.-l p.m. Free.
(Bus Nos. 5, 6, 18, 21)

*Moslem Quarter: the most densely populated, occupies the northeastern section of the Old City and stretches down beyond the central area. The boundaries are formed by the Walls on the north and the east, Suq Khan e-Zeit on the west, the Street of the Chain all the way to Mt. Moriah in the south. Before the Crusaders this section was Jewish it was only during the l2th and 13th centuries that the area became a predominantly Moslem one. Includes Temple Mount, start of Via Dolorosa, suqs (markets) and Mameluke buildings.
(Walk No. 2 and start of Walk No. 3)

*Mosque of El-Aksa: Temple Mount. Islam's holiest shrine after Mecca and Medina, stands on the traditional site of Solomon's Palace and the Palace of the Kings of Jerusalem which was destroyed by the Persians in 614. Built between 710-715 by Waleed, son of Abd el-Malik (who was responsible for the Dome of the Rock), El-Aksa has been shattered twice by earthquake (in 746 and in 1033). Crusaders in 1099 converted the restored structure into a centre for the Knights Templar until Saladin's triumph 88 years later when it was set aside again as a mosque.
A bullet-marked pillar inside the entrance indicates where King Abdullah of Transjordan was assassinated in 1951 the Tombs of the Sons of Aaron to the right are said to contain the remains of the assassins of l2th-century Archbishop of Canterbury Thomas ָ Becket. They came to the Holy Land as pilgrim penitents in the service of the Templars and never made it back. In 1969 an Australian pyromaniac started a fire here and destroyed a priceless ebony pulpit. The south side, facing Mecca, is ahead of you as you walk in the central nave stands between three aisles on each side (balancing with the seven arched portals outside) white Italian marble was used for the central and left-side pillars the stained glass windows added by Suleiman in the 16th century give some colour to the gloomy afternoon shadows. Inscription on wall near the main entrance praises the late King Farouk of Egypt for financing repairs. ``El-Aksa'' means ``the distant place'' (from Mecca) and is associated in the Koran with Mohammed's night journey. Open same hours as the Dome of the Rock. Closed Friday. Entrance fee includes Dome of the Rock and the Islamic Museum.
(Walk No. 2)

*Mosque of Omar: see Dome of the Rock.

Mount Herzl: Herzl Boulevard. Burial place of Theodor Herzl (1860-1904), the journalist, jurist and visionary who enormously inspired the Zionist movement and arranged the First Zionist Congress in Basel in 1897. He died in Vienna but his remains (together with those of his immediate family) were re-interred in Jerusalem in honour of his founding role in the establishment of Israel. Near Herzl's Tomb is the Tomb of Ze'ev Jabotinsky, another (re-interred) giant of the early Zionist scene. Yitzhak Rabin and Golda Meir are also buried here, along with other great leaders of the nation. The Herzl Museum, the first building as you approach the memorial area from Herzl Boulevard, is dedicated to the events and some of the objects in Herzl's life (letters, articles, etc., and his reconstructed study).
Down the Avenue of the Righteous Gentiles (where all the trees were planted by non-Jews who helped Jews escape from the Nazis) is Yad Vashem (see separate entry).
(Bus Nos. 13, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 39, 40)

*Mount Moriah: (see Temple Mount).

Mount of Olives: ``And David went up by the ascent of the Mount of Olives, and wept as he went up and he had his head covered, and went barefoot...'' (2 Samuel, 15:30). Associated with Judaism for over 3,000 years, the slopes hold the graves of pious Jews who died with the hope that the Resurrection of the Dead will begin here. Grim, final scenes in the life of Jesus were played out in this area. Of interest here are tombs of the Prophets, Christian shrines and Tomb of Mary, Basilica of the Agony (Church of All Nations), and Garden of Gethsemane, Church of St. Mary Magdalene, Dominus Flevit, Chapel of the Ascension and Church of Pater Noster. From the top of the mount, next to the Seven Arches Hotel, is a breathtaking view of the Old City and parts of the new city.
(Walk No. 4. Bus Nos. 42 and 43 from Damascus Gate)

Mount of Scandal (or Offence): rising on southern side of Silwan village. So named because King Solomon is said to have built temples on it for his pagan wives.

Mount Scopus: North of Mt. of Olives. Here you'll find the Hebrew University's original campus, now rebuilt (one of its four campuses), the Hadassah University Mount Scopus Hospital and the British WW1 military cemetery. The university boasts a classic open-air theatre overlooking the Judaean Desert and the Dead Sea, beautiful panoramas of Old and New Jerusalem from lookout points along the ring road, a computerized central library, an unusual modern synagogue, the Harry S. Truman Research Centre for the Advancement of Peace and a 40-acre botanical garden devoted to Biblical and Talmudic flora and indigenous flora of Israel with a garden for the blind and a rock-hewn, subterrannean Second Temple period tomb, the Nikanor cave. Free campus tours 11 a.m. Sun.-Thurs. from Bronfman Reception Centre, Sherman Administration Building.
(Bus Nos. 4a, 9, 23, 26, 28, 28a, 46)

Mount Zion: at southwest corner of Old City outside walls, site of traditional Tomb of David, Chamber of the Holocaust, Room of Jesus' Last Supper (see Cenacle), David Palombo Museum, Church of the Dormition, House of Caiaphas and various Christian cemeteries. The name ``Zion'' is thought to have derived from a Jebusite temple or stronghold which stood somewhere here when King David conquered the area. Isaiah prophesied that the law would go forth out of Zion and the word of the Lord from Jerusalem. The Hinnom Valley below connects with the Valley of Kidron on the eastern side and extends to Yemin Moshe.
(Walk No. 1. Bus Nos. 1, 38)

*Muristan: quarter adjacent to Church of Holy Sepulchre. Site of 2nd-century Roman forum. ``Muristan'' is Persian for hospital, referring to headquarters here of the Crusader Order of the Hospitallers. Kaiser Wilhelm was presented with land here and on it he built (in 1898) the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer. The tower of this church dominates the skyline and the view from the top is a good one (fee for ascending tower). See the signs of the zodiac over the gateway, the nearby mediaeval cloister, and the carefully arranged antiquities. There is a Greek bazaar in the area.
(Walk No. 3)