WALK No. 6      BACK

 

New in the OLD CITY

Archeological excavations continue in the Old City and ``new'' sites are being turned up all the time. Some of the most recent and fascinating finds are the Herodian Quarter, an exclusive residential neighbourhood from the Second Temple period, and, in excavations along the Western Wall, the bedrock of the Temple Mount. We suggest the following tour for those who are interested in the First and Second Temple periods.

Starting at Jaffa Gate (which you can reach by buses 1, 13, 19, 20, or 23), take the first right onto Armenian Patriarch Road, turn left into St. James' Road, and follow its curves past Ararat Street. Keep going straight on Or Ha'haim St., cross over the remains of the Byzantine Cardo, then cross the large square in the centre of the Jewish Quarter, towards the Mizrahi Bank, and take Rehov Tiferet Yisrael which leads you to the Burnt House.

You can buy a combined ticket that gives you admission to the Burnt House and the Herodian Quarter, both from the Second Temple period, and to the Israelite Tower, from the First Temple period.

The Burnt House, so called because it was discovered under a layer of ashes, was destroyed by fire at the end of the great revolt against the Romans in 70 C.E. (a month after the Temple was destroyed).

It was owned by a family of priests, the Katroses, who may have used it to prepare incense for service in the Temple.

 

You can see the remains of the ritual baths, and glass and stone vessels (which were used by priests because they don't conduct ritual impurity). The Katros family is mentioned in the Talmud in an unfavourable light: ``Woe is me from the House of Katros, woe is me from their pens.'' (The implication is that the family used its priestly position for personal gain.)

The single most impressive find here was a human forearm, from the finger tip to the elbow joint, the only skeletal remains from the Second Temple period discovered in the Jewish Quarter. According to Prof. Nahman Avigad, the archaeologist responsible for the Jewish Quarter, the bone belonged to a 21-year-old woman. Nearby, a metal spear head was found, probably the weapon of Jewish defenders who tried unsuccessfully to stave off the Roman onslaught.

Since the bone is almost certainly that of a Jewish woman, it was buried in accordance with Jewish law, but pictures are on display. Nearby, archaeologists found a drainage tunnel. According to the historian Josephus, some of the last Jewish rebels to hold out against the Romans hid in tunnels such as this. (More than 1,900 years later, during the Warsaw Ghetto uprising, Jewish rebels hid in the sewage system.)

The Burnt House has a 12-minute slide presentation that explains its history, and provides background information on the Herodian Quarter as well. The English soundtrack runs at 9:30 and 11:30 a.m. and 1:30 and 3:30 p.m. A German soundtrack is available on request (call 287211).

Allow about 30 minutes for the Burnt House.

Leaving the Burnt House, turn right and return to the Mizrahi Bank. Turn left and then left again at the first alleyway, Rehov Hakara'im. About 10 metres down this road, on your right, is the entrance to the Herodian Quarter (Wohl Archaeological Museum). This site, which was only recently opened to the public, is a 30,000-square-foot area that was known as the upper city of Jerusalem. It was the exclusive residential neighbourhood of the city during the Second Temple and was destroyed by fire in 70 CE, on the eighth day of the Hebrew month of Elul, the same day that the Burnt House was destroyed.

The remains of at least six villas were uncovered here, each with its own ritual bath, implying that the residents of the Upper City were religiously observant Jews. It is also likely that some of the residents were priests.

The largest home, aptly called ``The Mansion'', covers 600 square metres and may have had a second floor, which increases its size to about 1,000 square metres.

On the mansion's mosaic floor archaeologists found real and immediate evidence of the second destruction of Jerusalem. On the floor are charred wooden roofing beams which fell during the fire. They lay undisturbed for 1,900 years until excavated by Israeli archaeologists.

Among the other findings are two plaster fragments that when fitted together show about two-thirds of a Menora (candelabrum) carved inside. This may be the most accurate image of the candelabrum that existed in the Temple.
Allow about 45 minutes for the Herodian Quarter.

You'll exit the Herodian Quarter on the Rabbi Yehuda Halevi stairs. Turn left, walk up, turn left at the top of the stairs, Rehov Misgav Ladach, continue to an alleyway called Rehov HaGitit, turn left, walk down the stairs to the Siebenberg House. There is an entrance fee. Tours are conducted at 12:00 noon.

More fascinating than the archaeological treasures here is the story of how they were discovered. Theo and Miriam Siebenberg bought the house in 1970 and Theo was convinced that it was built over significant archaeological remains. But archaeologists were sceptical, so he conducted and financed the excavations himself (including the construction of steel-reinforced concrete buttresses to reinforce the street). The Siebenbergs, or one of their employees, will guide you around the royal burial vaults, jars, mosaics and coins, some dating back 3,000 years, and present a slide show.

Allow 45-60 minutes for the Siebenberg House.

Leaving the Siebenberg House, return to Rehov Misgav Ladach, and make your way back to the Mizrahi Bank at the large square. Turn right on Rehov Bonei HaChomot, walk to Rehov Shonei Halachot, turn left. On your right is the entrance to the Israelite Tower, believed to be the place where the Babylonians breached the wall surrounding Jerusalem in 586 BCE. On your left, you have Yad Ben Zvi, and its model of the First Temple period of Jerusalem (entrance fee).
Come at noon or 4 p.m. and you can hear a presentation on the era. Allow 45-60 minutes.

Another fascinating new site is the Western Wall tunnel.

Archaeologists have dug along the northern continuation of the Wall and have reached the bedrock of the Temple Mount.

Guided Walking Tours (Old City, City of David)

In addition to the Society for the Protection of Nature tour mentioned earlier, there are walking tours of the Old City that begin from the courtyard of the Citadel at 9 and 11 a.m. and 2 p.m.

There is also a free guided walking tour in English on Saturdays at 10 a.m. Meet at the entrance of the Russian Compound, 32 Jaffa Road. Information: Jerusalem Municipality, Tel. (02)258844. Walking tours are conducted every day from the Sheraton Plaza Hotel. Contact the hotel for details.

It is possible to walk along the top of the ramparts of the Old City Wall from gate to gate, except from Lions' Gate to Dung Gate, every day from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. A small fee is charged.

There are tours of the Ophel Garden excavations, (southern wall) daily except Saturday at 9 a.m., 1 p.m., and 2.30 p.m. Tickets may be purchased near Dung Gate. Wear comfortable shoes.

Free guided tours of the Old City begin at 10 a.m. every Saturday from the Municipal Tourist Office, 17 Jaffa Road.