Places of Interest BACK

Church of the Nativity: (see also our Special Cristianity in Holy Land)
Dominating Manger Square. One of the most revered sites in Christendom as it marks the place of Jesus' birth. First church built by Empress Helena in the 4th century. Destroyed by Samaritans and rebuilt in present form by Emperor Justinian in the 6th century. Restored by Crusaders, two of whose Kings, Baldwin I and II, were crowned within.
Entrance through very low ``door of humility,'' built thus to prevent Moslem horsemen intent on sacrilege from riding in. Notice many carved crosses on wood inside, made by pilgrims over many centuries. Roof constructed by Edward IV of English oak and tons of lead. Turks later melted some of this lead to make bullets in war against the Venetians.
Steps lead on either side of the altar down to the Grotto of the Nativity. Bronze doors in marble arches are work of Crusaders. Silver star on the Altar of the Nativity marks spot where Jesus was born, denoted by Latin inscription reading, ``Here Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin Mary.'' Seventeen lamps burn day and night above the altar. Original star placed here by Roman Catholic church in 1717 but removed by Greeks in 1847. Turks replaced it but incident was contributing factor to outbreak of Crimean War.
Catholics are forbidden to use the Altar of the Nativity, but may burn incense over the star. They use the Altar of the Manger, a few metres away, which is marked by a Latin inscription saying that the newborn Jesus was placed here (by the Virgin Mary). On Christmas Eve, the Latin Patriarch takes a wooden image of the infant Jesus from the adjacent Franciscan Church of St. Catherine and solemnly places it on the Altar of the Manger, where it remains until Epiphany.
Background notes: rights in the Basilica and Grotto are held jointly by the Greek Orthodox, Armenians and Latins (Catholics). Rivalries during the past centuries led to fisticuffs between the religious orders. The intricate status quo has been adhered to here (as in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem) since compromises were worked out by a British District Commissioner. Peace is maintained only through the three communities strictly observing tight schedules. For instance, the Greeks must finish censing the Altar of the Nativity by 4.30 a.m., when the Catholics hold their first mass. The Armenian mass begins at 8 a.m., after which the Grotto is open for private prayer and to the general public.

David's Wells: King David Street, off Manger Street. Three large cisterns from which King David longed to drink while Philistines were garrisoned in Bethlehem (2 Samuel 23:13-17). Byzantines built church and convent here 4th-6th centuries. Monks serving in church buried in catacombs and names of several still seen on some of the 80 tombs.

Field of Ruth: east of Milk Grotto, with Judaean desert unfolding towards Dead Sea. Where Ruth, the Moabite, gleaned barley from the field of her husband-to-be, Boaz (Ruth 2).

Milk Grotto: Milk Grotto Street, short walk southeast of Church of Nativity. Franciscan church over cave where tradition says Virgin Mary spilt milk while nursing Jesus. The drops turned black stones milk white. Packets of this powdery white stone sold to pilgrims, allegedly with power to increase flow of mother's milk.

Rachel's Tomb: at northern entrance to Bethlehem, on Jerusalem Road. Traditional burial place of matriarch Rachel, wife of Jacob (Genesis 35:19-20). Ancient domes and pillars enclosed in 18th century and renovated by Sir Moses Montefiore in 1841 (see inscription on marble tablet within). Visited by devout on new moons, during month of Elul and on 14th Heshvan, traditional anniversary of her death. Headcovers available at entrance. Open: Sun-Thurs. 8 a.m. - 6 p.m. Fri. 8 a.m. - 1 p.m. Closed Sat. Admission free.

Shepherds' Field: idyllic terraced fields with olive trees on left of eastern entrance to city. Where angel appeared to shepherds to announce birth of Jesus (Luke 2:8-20). There are two churches here, one Roman Catholic and the other Greek Orthodox.

Suq: few minutes' walk west of Manger Square. Better bargains and greater variety of wares than in Manger Square although quality sometimes not as good. Fine opportunity to see colourful dress of Arabs from Bethlehem and neighbouring villages selling fruits and vegetables in an open-air market. Sites near Bethlehem

Herodion: palatial fortress 9 km. southeast of Bethlehem along well-signposted road (No. 356). Herod artificially raised height by piling debris on summit of hill. Built palaces inside in 1st century BCE. Josephus described it as resembling woman's breast. Had 200 white marble steps leading up to circular wall and towers. Commanding view of Jerusalem suburbs, Dead Sea, Bethlehem and Judaean Desert. Herod buried here with great pomp. Seized by Romans after destruction of Second Temple and used by Bar Kochba as district headquarters.
Remains include stone benches from synagogue and mikve (ritual bath). Also ruins of 5th-6th century Byzantine chapel. Fairly recent finds, near base, of Herodian town with palace, hippodrome and pleasure garden.
Open 8 a.m. - 4 p.m. (5 p.m. in summer). Entrance fee.

Mar Saba Monastery: 14 km. east of Bethlehem (partly along Roads Nos. 3717 and 398). Most spectacular of all Holy Land monasteries, clinging to walls of canyons of Kidron Valley. Reclusive monks, some of whom have been in caves for years without communicating even with each other. Monastery destroyed and pillaged many times since Byzantine era. Present structure built by Russian government in mid-19th century. Women forbidden to enter. Road from Ubeidiya leads to monastery.

Return to Bethlehem and follow Road No. 60 to Hebron past hills solid with grey slabs of rock, around several neat villages where vines and olives are plentiful and then, one kilometre after the village/refugee camp of Dahaishe and stone quarries, swing left for Solomon's Pools.
These three gigantic, rectangular-shaped cisterns, surrounded by tall trees, were attributed to King Solomon, but are known today to date from Herod's time, when they formed part of a magnificent water system for Jerusalem. Even today they hold hundreds of thousands of gallons of opaque-green water.
Opposite are the ruins of a Crusader fortress, which guarded this important water source. Remnants of water conduits may also still be seen.

Continue on this side-road for one kilometre, along a road that has been shaved on the side of a steep hill leading down to the valley. The road leads into the small Christian-Arab village of Artas. Down below in the valley is the Monastery of Hortus Conclusus, stretched across the base of a mountain and set at the edge of huge gardens. Hortus Conclusus is Latin for locked garden and is inspired by a passage from the Song of Songs, attributed to Solomon: ``A garden locked is my sister, my bride, a garden locked, a fountain sealed'' (Song of Songs 4:12).

Return to the highway and almost immediately notice the plaque on the right hand side. It is a memorial to 10 Jews mown down by Arabs at this spot in December 1947, only 11 days after the United Nations had voted to partition Palestine into Arab and Jewish states.

Continue over the Judaean hills for another 12 km. before reaching the religious settlements grouped together under the banner of Gush Etzion (Etzion Bloc). Turn right into Road No. 367.