HEBRON

Places of Interest
History

One of the four cities holy to Jews, Hebron is inextricably bound up with the fabric of Hebrew history. It is sanctified in Jewish eyes because the patriarchs, Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, are buried in the Cave of Machpelah with their wives Sarah, Rebecca and Leah, and because David was anointed king in Hebron and ruled here at the beginning of his reign.

The massive structure built by Herod over the Cave of Machpelah dominates this city of hills. Everything, from the bustling souq to the stone villas in the suburbs, seems to radiate from it. Hebron is essentially an introverted city, wrapping itself in the solitude of its vines and holding within its bosom the shrines that pilgrims and tourists visit regardless of the efforts of the townspeople.

Apart from the characteristically heavy and colourful glassware - a trade believed to have been introduced by Jewish immigrants from Venice after the Crusaders - Hebron seems content to rest on its laurels of chance association with biblical figures.

However, if you drive to the fenced, hill-top Jewish settlement of Kiryat Arba, you will soon appreciate the latent passions that Hebron evokes. These Orthodox Jews were held at arm's length after the Six Day War. But their insistence on being allowed to live in Hebron won them the initial right to live within the Military Government compound. Their settlement, complete with synagogue and yeshiva, has been expanding geographically and includes about 3,000 Orthodox and secular Jews.