DEGANYA

The next stop is at the first entrance to Kibbutz Deganya Aleph, the mother of all kibbutzim, founded in 1909. Turn in right, after crossing the Jordan bridge.

It is a short walk through the kibbutz to the A.D. Gordon Agricultural and Nature Study Institute, named after the Second Aliya philosopher who lived and died here. The library has 55,000 volumes. Also a museum of the natural history of Israel and the archaeology of the Jordan Valley. Open: Sun. - Thurs. 9 a.m. - 4 p.m., Fri. 8.30 a.m. - 12 noon. Sat. 9.30 a.m. - 12 noon. Entrance fee.

Back on the main road, turn right very shortly afterwards into the second entrance to the kibbutz. Almost immediately, to your right, opposite the banana plantations, you will see the Syrian tank that was stopped by a ``Molotov cocktail'' in 1948. When the Syrians saw what had happened to this tank, the only one to break through the perimeter of the kibbutz during the three-day battle, they turned tail and abandoned their attempt to reach the Galilee and the Jezreel Valley.

The road to En Gev (No. 92) is lined with date palms before you reach Zemakh, with the turn-off, right, to Bet Shean. An impressive monument to the defenders of the area during the War of Independence stands at Zemakh, on the southern rim of the Sea of Galilee, to your left.

Nearby is the new cultural centre Bet Gabriel. Opened in May 1993 on the shores of the lake, it includes a theatre, a small auditorium and a restaurant. It was built by Gita Sherover as a memorial to her son, and intended as a peace center.

From Zemakh, there is a road southeastwards (No. 98) to Hamat Gader (El Hama in Arabic), which has been renowned for its mineral pools since ancient times. (Drive carefully!) The site was opened officially to the Israeli public in mid-1977. It offers bathing in a 42 centigrade mineral spring, in an open pool an archaeological site (with findings from the Early Bronze Period and the 5th century CE) look out on to the Yarmuk River and Jordan picnic and barbecue facilities crocodile park refreshment centre, toilets, showers and first-aid station. (See ``Health Resorts.'')

Back on Road No. 92 along the eastern shore of the lake, heading north, you'll find Ma'agan Camping Site immediately on your left, with full facilities, a beach and lawns. Ahead of you is the meeting point of the Golan Heights and the Gilead Range, between which flows the Yarmuk River.

There are popular camping sites at Kibbutz Ma'agan and Kibbutz Ha'on (which also has an ostrich farm) and just before En Gev. Turn left and follow the tarred road within the kibbutz down to the jetty, fishing boats, restaurants, Esco Music Centre and fee-paying beach area.