MERON

This small village is the focal point of one of the most colourful annual pilgrimages in the calendar of Jewish holidays. On Lag Ba'Omer, the 33rd day after the counting of the Omer, from the eve of Passover, tens of thousands of young and old trek up the slopes of 1,200-m.-high Mt. Meron to the Tombs of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai and his son, Eleazar.

The Kabbalists hold that Rabbi Bar Yochai vowed to the Almighty that the Torah would never be forgotten. It is in fulfilment of this vow that the ancient Scrolls of the Law are taken in joyous procession from Zefat's old synagogues to the rabbi's tomb. If you happen to be here during Lag Ba'Omer, usually in May, you will find large tent cities where the pilgrims slaughter many sheep and cattle during the few days they camp here. There is a Yeshiva within the compound of the tombs of the rabbi and his son. The court where the tombs are located was built by Rabbi Abraham ben Mordechai Galante in the second half of the 16th century.

Walk further up the mountain, up some steps a few hundred metres further off, and you'll come to one of the oldest Galilee synagogues, built in the 3rd century CE. Its east wall is carved out of the sheer rock scarp.

Many Jewish sages are buried in Meron. Among them is one of the most revered of all - Rabbi Hillel, of the 1st century CE, whose liberal teachings are the inspiration behind many of the rabbinical decisions in our time. His cave-tomb is reached by a path leading down to the valley from the left of the Yeshiva.

Rabbi Shammai, a contemporary of Hillel, is believed to be buried close by, in the massive double sarcophagus set on the hill facing Hillel's tomb.

At the top of this hill lies the excavated synagogue of Khirbet Shema, in use throughout the 3rd-5th centuries CE. An unusual feature is the fixed shrine for Torah Scrolls most of the synagogues of this period, such as that at Capernaum, had mobile Arks.

Return now to the gas station and turn left after it in the direction of Sasa. (You're still on Road No. 89.) Pass Moshav Sifsufa and turn left before Jish (Gush Halav), on the slopes of a hill on your right. Jish is the Arabic name of the village occupied by Maronites (Catholics) who originate in the Lebanon. The sect is named after St. Maron, a 6th-century holy man.

Jewish historians will recall that John of Giscala (Gush Halav), one of the leaders of the revolt against the Romans in the 1st century CE, came from here.

Drive on, with Mt. Meron on the left. A signpost points left to Rosh Haniqra at the northwestern edge of Israel Bar'am and Metzudat Yesha are to the right along Road No. 899. The ruins of the village of Bar'am, destroyed shortly after the War of Independence, and uninhabited today because of a government decree, stand wistfully on a rise in the landscape.

There is a parking lot to the right off the main road, next to the National Parks site.

Set high up in the mountains, almost on the border with Lebanon, Bar'am has the best preserved of the early Galilee synagogues. It dates from the end of the 2nd century or the early 3rd century CE. The most impressive part of this synagogue, the main facade, stands to this day. Three stone portals seem to defy time and the elements. The centre portal is crowned by a semi-circular arch, decorated with a bas-relief of vine leaves and clusters of grapes. Part of the ornamental lintel has a sculptured garland set between two lions. Open: Sun. -Thurs. 8 a.m.-4 p.m., Fri. 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Entrance fee. Tel. (06)940400. Nearby is Kibbutz Bar'am.

The 25 km. drive from here to Metzudat Yesha takes you through scenery that is every bit as captivating as that in Jerusalem. But the predominant colours here are olive green and rock grey. The road clings to the Lebanese border, on the other side of which farmers grow Turkish tobacco and other crops.

The Israeli side is dotted with frontier settlements. A number of memorials stand on the side of the road. They provide silent evidence of the fact that terrorists from across the border brought murder to an area that was free of incidents until the end of the 1967 war. Notice how the orchards of Kibbutz Malkiya end within centimetres of the security fence.

Continue along the weaving road until, just before Metzudat Yesha, Road No. 886 leads off left to Tel Hai, 20 km. away (see Route No. 18).