ZEFAT (SAFAD)

A divine presence seems to hover over the mountainous peaks of Zefat, one of the four cities holy to Judaism.

Its old city, balancing precariously on the west, overlooks the humped Galilee as far down as the waters of the Sea of Galilee. It is a world unto itself. Something of its golden age in the 16th and 17th centuries, when erudite rabbis and Kabbalists lived and studied here, seems to linger on. Yet Zefat is unassuming, and its cobbled streets and winding alleys are squeezed between whitewashed walls of low and curiously angled houses.

There are overhanging balconies where you will see wrinkled and devout inhabitants. Yiddish and Hebrew filter through the iron grille-work and out of the painted shutters. This is ironic in a way since it was Ladino speakers who gave the town a great name in the 16th century.

Zefat's synagogues are as small as the one-roomed Pennsylvanian Amish schools. Their exquisite precision of design makes for intimacy, warmth and piety.

The cool mountain air and winter snow apparently stimulate the sensibilities of a great number of creative artists, for they have chosen to make Zefat their home.

Their quarter also exudes an overpowering charm. In fact, the Artists' Quarter, which is part of the old city, is far more of an aesthetic adventure than tramping through Jaffa because nothing has been touched up to flutter the tourist.

Everything is preserved in its original state.

Zefat may be seen in less than a day, but such is the magic of its spiritual touch that you will find yourself wanting to return again and again to its dizzying confines.

You can take a two-hour walking tour that will bring you to at least three ancient synagogues, explaining their history and giving you a taste of Kabbala, Jewish mysticism. The tour starts out across the street from the Tourist Information Office at 15 Rehov Yerushalyim.

The schedule is as follows: Sunday-Thursday: 10 a.m., 2 p.m. Friday: 10 a.m. For more information, call (06)974597.
Location: Zefat hangs high in the Upper Galilee mountains, peering down on the Sea of Galilee, southeast, looking across to Mt. Meron in the west, and lying about 15 km. south of the Lebanese border. Climate: cool, mountain air and invigorating summers. Snow often falls during the winter when it is usually chilly and even icy. Zefat is 900 m. above sea level.

Population: most of Zefat's 20,000 or so residents are people who settled in the new area after the War of Independence. In the old city, however, there are many religious families with age-old ties to the city.

Tourist Information Office: 15 Rehov Yerushalayim, tel. (06)920961. Open: Sun. - Thurs. 8.30 a.m. - 12.30 p.m., 4 - 6 p.m. Fri. 9 a.m. - 12 noon.

History

The Talmud refers to the city as Tzefiya, and in the last years of the Second Temple it was fortified by Josephus Flavius before he became a turncoat.

The Crusaders turned it into an administrative centre, building one of the largest Frankish castles in the Middle East. It was besieged by Saladin in 1188.

When Sultan Beibars finally took it in 1266, he decapitated the men and sold the women and children into slavery.
As the Crusader cities along the coast fell to the Mamelukes, many Jews moved to Zefat. The town prospered and was the capital of a province and a lively commercial centre. Zefat took in many Jews following their expulsion from Spain in 1492. During the 16th century it positively shone with learning.

The rabbis and the sages were all attracted by the proximity of the tomb of Rabbi Shimon Bar-Yochai at Meron. He was the author of the ``Zohar'' (or Book of Splendour), which was the basic book of the Kabbalists. It is a mystical commentary on the Five Books of Moses and proceeds from the premise that every letter, word and line in the scriptures is significant, containing a higher mystical meaning and offering the key to life.

Illustrious rabbis flocked to Zefat's precincts. They studied and taught and published books and poems, spurred on by the opening in Zefat in 1563 of the country's first Hebrew printing press Rabbi Moshe Galante published the first book there.

Among the luminaries was Rabbi Moshe Cordovero (1522-1570), whose ``Pardes Rimonim'' (Grove of Pomegranates) is a standard work on the Kabbala.

His brother-in-law, Solomon Alkabetz, composed the hymn, ``Lecha Dodi,'' which to this day is sung by Jews everywhere to welcome in the Sabbath.

Many of the poems of Israel Najara (1555-1628) have become part of Sephardi synagogue ritual.

The greatest teacher of all, Rabbi Isaac Luria, was a hermit in Egypt before arriving in Zefat in 1569. The name by which he is known to posterity is Ha'Ari (the lion). By the time he died, only three years later, he had become a living legend and bequeathed a system of Kabbala known as the Lurianic system. His teachings were embodied in a book, ``Etz Hayim'' (Tree of Life), published by his disciple Haim Vital (1543-1620).

Joseph Caro's magnum opus, the ``Shulkhan Arukh,'' was completed in 1536.

A breakdown in law and order along the Galilee highways, together with a plague in 1742 and an earthquake in 1759, account for Zefat's decline. However, the Jewish population increased somewhat with the arrival of some Russian Hassidim in 1776.

Napoleon's troops were garrisoned in Zefat to secure the highway to Damascus.

The Crusader castle was completely destroyed in the earthquake that shook the town in 1837, and many of the loosened stones were used in building other houses in the city.

During the War of Independence, Zefat's religious community helped fortify the Jewish quarter on the Sabbath, with Rabbi Avraham Zida Heller donning his Sabbath clothes before joining in the defence. The Arabs originally held the Citadel and Mt. Canaan but fled after the Jews stormed the Citadel during a night-time operation. Zefat has since flourished as a vacation centre and Jewish pilgrimage site.

Synagogues

The ancient synagogues of Zefat are west of Kikar HaMeginim, reached by descending the slopes from Rehov Yerushalayim into the old city.

Abohav: named after the 15th-century Kabbalist, Rabbi Isaac Abohav. Ancient Torah Scroll used only on Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur and Shavuot. Wall facing Jerusalem was only one not damaged by the 1837 earthquake.

Alshekh: beautiful domed ceiling in 16th-century synagogue. Named after Rabbi Moses Alshekh (1508-1600), author of commentary on the Torah.

Banai: believed to be Rabbi Yossi Banai's house. One of the most attractive, with adjoining courtyard. The 16th-century rabbi is buried within. Ancient Torah Scroll carried in joyous procession to Meron on Lag Ba'omer. Stone floor, wooden ceiling and benches around three sides. Women's gallery. Yeshiva within small adjoining room. If locked, ask for caretaker.

Caro: off Rehov Beit Josef, just after Rehov Alkabetz. In honour of Rabbi Joseph Caro (1488-1575), who codified daily religious practices in ``Shulkhan Arukh.'' He is said to have worked and prayed here. Admirable simplicity and intimacy of interior. Small domed room beneath synagogue believed to be where angel appeared as wandering preacher, inspiring him to write ``A preacher of righteousness.''

Ha'Ari (Ashkenazi): Rehov Najara. Traditionally the site where Rabbi Isaac Luria went to welcome the Sabbath. Built after his death and damaged in 1837 earthquake. Fifteen years later rebuilt on 16th-century foundations. Superlative art work on Holy Ark, with intricate carvings and reliefs dating from 19th century. Make it a point to talk to the caretaker of the synagogue (and perhaps give him some money). He knows a lot about the town's history, both ancient and modern.

Ha'Ari (Sephardi): at base of old city, close to ancient cemetery. Most famous of all Zefat's synagogues. Exquisite decorations and architecture. Great craftsmanship in central bimah, neatly enclosed by low, arched ceiling and benches round sides. Finely-carved wooden doors. With surrounding wall, served as Haganah stronghold during War of Independence. Caretaker expects donation before opening doors.

Other Sites

Artists' Quarter: Kiryat HaOmanim. Turn right at traffic light on southern tip of Rehov Yerushalayim. Cluster of quaint, stone houses with studios built around former mosque, now serving as site of general exhibition of Zefat artists. Open: Sun. - Thurs. 9 a.m. - 7 p.m. in summer (winter 9 a.m. - 5 p.m.) Fri. 9 a.m. - 2 p.m. Sat. 10 a.m. - 1 p.m.

Caves: there are a number of caves in and around Zefat. Most famous is Cave of Shem V'Ever, close to bridge above Rehov Yerushalayim and close to Rehov Palmach. Musty interior. Presided over by old man who lights candles and recites prayers, after which he expects donation. Said to be place where Shem and Ever, son and great-great grandson of Noah, studied.

Cemetery: at base of slopes on extreme west of city. Adjacent to Ha'Ari road by car. Modern cemetery has graves of underground fighters executed in Akko by British in 1947, and of men who fell in War of Independence.
Ancient cemetery further south has tombs of learned rabbis of 16th century including Ha'Ari, Cordovero, Alkabetz and Alshekh. Karaites of Damascus are said to have built domed tomb traditionally regarded as site of grave of prophet Hosea.

Citadel Hill: Givat HaMetzuda. Park above centre of city with magnificent view over Zefat as far as Sea of Galilee. Handed over by British to Arabs in April 1948. Captured by Jews four days before Independence. Memorial to soldiers of 1948 on crown of hill, above ruins of Crusader fortifications. Restaurant. Band during summer.

Davidka monument: Rehov Yerushalayim above old city. Primitive mortar developed by Israeli forces in 1948.

Old Turkish Government House: Rehov Aliya Bet.

Museums

Hameiri House: A historic house in the Old City dating from 1517, which now houses a museum, a research institute for the history of Zefat, and an educational centre. Hundreds of items show the life of Jewish community of Zefat through the years. Open: Sun.-Fri. 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Entrance fee. Tel. (06)971307, 921932. P. O. B. 1028.

The Israel Bible Museum: the Bible in Art: on northern rim of Citadel Hill. Open: March - Sept. Sun. - Thurs. 10 a.m. - 6 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Oct. and Nov. Sat. - Thurs. 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Dec. and Feb. Sun. - Thurs. 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Sat. closed. Closed Fridays. Closed January. Admission free.

Museum of the Art of Printing: within Artists' Quarter. First Hebrew press in Holy Land, founded in Zefat in 16th century. Display of 500 years of printing. Open: Sun. - Thurs. 10 a.m. - 12 noon, 4-6 p.m. Fri. 10 a.m. - 12 noon Sat. 10 a.m. - 12 noon. Admission free. Tel. (06)920947.

Ethiopian Folkart Centre: Eshtam House, Old City. Documentation and information centre. Original handicrafts. Exhibition and sale. Open: Sun. - Thurs. 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Fri. 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. Admission free.

A Walk In Zefat

Start the walk from the Town Hall near the entrance to town, diagonally opposite Gan Rothschild, on the main street, Rehov Yerushalayim. At the first corner to the left, just past the Town Hall, the road leads to the Israel Bible Museum, where the permanent exhibit of works by international artist Phillip Ratner is housed. The museum is in the former home of the Turkish governor in Zefat.

From the Museum the road leads further uphill to the ruins of a 13th-century Crusader fortress. Today, at Hametzuda, a park has been developed on the site where there is also a memorial to those who fell in the 1948 War of Independence. There are breathtaking views in every direction.

Descend from the park alongside the Israel Bible Museum and return to Rehov Yerushalayim. A short distance along Zefat's main street, you come to two narrow lanes to your right: HaMeginim and Bar Yochai, both of which lead into the old city and its synagogue quarter. Most synagogues have a deacon (shames) on the premises who will be happy to show you the house of worship and tell you something of its history.

Return to Rehov Yerushalayim and continue to a flight of stairs, just before the bridge, which leads down to the Artists' Quarter. Also in the Artists' Quarter is the Museum of the Art of Printing. Zefat was the first town in the land where books were printed. Leave the Artists' Quarter and climb the stairs leading to the bridge. Alongside them, next to the bridge on Rehov Palmach, is the Cave of Shem and Ever. A white-domed building marks the site of the cave.

After the bridge to your left is Rehov Aliya Bet with the ``Saraya'' - Old Turkish Government House. Return to Rehov Yerushalayim. (An organized daily walking tour leaves from 18 Rehov Yerushalayim at 9.30 a.m. It lasts two hours and takes you to the old city and synagogues. Tel. (06)972763.

Up the road that leads to Amuka is Bat Ya'ar, a farm that organizes trips on horseback around the area, jeep trips and adventurous outdoor activities such as rappeling down cliffs. The farm has a restaurant.

Continue driving west on Road No. 89 for 7 km. of hilly, wooded countryside until you arrive at a picnic site at the entrance to Meron. Then turn left after the Delek gas station for a look at the principal sites.